The Land Cruiser thumped up the trail. I was riding shotgun, which meant I had a seat belt. Lotte made do by bracing against the top of the back seat with one hand and the roof with the other while trying not to land on the exposed metal wheel arch after each bump. Seven people in the truck would have been chaos but today it was just us and Andy, our rad driver. We were in Bulgaria heading towards the abandoned communist monument known as Buzludzha.