Like many Georgian foods, khinkali are not originally from the country. But tracing where, exactly, their story began means confronting some powerful national myths.

At the height of summer, Tbilisi is a heat trap. Ringed on three sides by an amphitheatre of mountains, the Georgian capital sits in a valley where stifling, humid air collects. Right up until evening, just traversing the city can be a life-sapping slog.

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Asia Georgia