PHNOM PENH, Cambodia— “Aren’t you afraid?” 30-year-old Chea Sinat, asks as we walk down a long, dark corridor to her aunt’s apartment on the top floor of Phnom Penh’s iconic—and infamous—White Building. “No,” I say with a shrug. “It’s OK.” “What about the smell?” Sinat continued, slightly nervous that I would judge the edifice, where …

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